Jeremy Owens, vice president of 3 Generations Improvements, near Sacramento, Calif., says, “As a residential-construction professional, you look at home siding whenever you’re driving, walking the neighborhood, or traveling the country. The thoughts that often swirl in your head are always the same: What kind of siding is that? Why is that siding failing? (And, if you're a siding contractor, you hope to say, 'Boy, this neighborhood needs siding!' ”) Poor Product Selections, Improper InstallationIt truly is amazing how many people need siding in the U.S. The products and procedures used decades ago in home construction and remodeling, such as T1-11, aluminum, or other lap siding with improper flashing, are reasons why contractors have so much work today, Owens says.“With over 120 years of combined experience in our company, we see that inferior products and installations are the main culprits for siding failures,” Owens says.
“It still amazes me that some professionals in home construction do not look at the side walls like a roof—it is almost like they ran out of budget when putting thought into the siding.”Owens says that the same holds true for a home that 3 Generations Improvements is currently remodeling in Larkspur, Calif. “The whole neighborhood’s siding is leaking and we are on our second home, with many more likely to come,” Owens says. “The builder did not look at the side walls like a roof and with little-to-no eaves around the house and poor roof-to-siding transitions, water run-off tested the system and ultimately won.” Finding Peace of MindTo solve the homeowner’s problems, Owens says that 3 Generations Improvements determined the need for a siding that would be easy to work with and easy to create the flashing around to properly shed water. “We also needed a siding that would bring the homeowners peace of mind that their new premium siding would have an industry-leading warranty, along with an exterior finish that would last,” he says. Proper Installation for LP ® SmartSide ® SidingWith, Owens and his team were able to provide the homeowner with a siding that could be flashed properly. They used 4-inch-wide flashing slip sheets for all the butt joints, L or step flashing at rooflines, and Z-flashing over all head trim and important fascia-to-siding transitions. “By properly installing the siding,' Owens says, 'we will avoid water penetration.”After building in the proper flashing, the homeowner will have a highly weather-resistant, engineered, and treated wood siding backed by a five-year 100 percent labor and replacement feature and a 50-year prorated limited warranty on the substrate.
The warranty is transferrable to the next homeowner. The prefinished paint will come with a 30-year warranty from this particular siding prefinisher.“LP SmartSide Siding enabled the homeowner and us to check all the boxes for what was needed for this re-side,” Owens says.Owens is an at the Master level.For more information about LP SmartSide Trim & Siding, please visit.
For more information about 3 Generations Improvements, please visit. Job location: Home in Larkspur, Calif., near Sacramento. Name of remodeler: 3 Generations Improvements. LP SmartSide Trim & Siding contact: Amy Lindholm, Brand Manager, Siding Group, 615.986.5688.
Roofkey.com Roof to Wall Flashing 530 × 351 - 41k - jpg roofkey.com Eave to Rake Wall Flashing 530 × 362 - 28k - jpg roofkey.com Roof to Wall Intersections 530 × 362 - 26k - jpg youtube.com Teaching stucco Drip and Weep screeds Flashing for stucco walls. 1920 × 1080 - 172k - jpg decks.com Decks.com. Flashing the Ledger Board 1800 × 1200 - 454k - jpg homerepairsandremodels. Windows: Z- Flashing.HRR 250 × 214 - 7k - gif greenbuildingadvisor.com Using Rigid Foam As a Water-Resistive Barrier. 548 × 647 - 112k - jpg icreatables.com How To Build A Shed: Storage Shed Building Instructions 600 × 370 - 93k - jpg biotoxinjourney.com How to Find and Prevent Mold: Windows and Doors Biotoxin Journey 400 × 480 - 45k - jpg youtube.com How to install ' Z' Bar flashing, basic tutorial. YouTube 1280 × 720 - 138k - jpg roofkey.com Roof to Wall Flashing 530 × 412 - 39k - jpg youtube.com Z Bar Overlap Installation - YouTube 1920 × 1080 - 169k - jpg roofkey.com Roof to Wall Flashing 530 × 412 - 56k - jpg contractortalk.com Z Flashing/Drip Cap - Windows, Siding and Doors - Contractor Talk 842 × 1123 - 184k - jpg basc.pnnl.gov Install minimum 6' wide self-adhered butyl Z- flashing Building.
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There’s nothing like having a few gaping holes in the perfectly good exterior walls of your house during rainy season to make you fully appreciate that windows in your house will either be a blessing, or the bane of your existence. Depending on how well they’re installed and the kind of flashing you use.
Also, now may be a good time for you to buy stock in caulk.You may have been around here a few weeks ago when.In retrospect, I’m still not sure if I would have rather risked the stability of our relationship by trying to install them ourselves, and at this point it is what it is.So that no one else has to stumble upon the proper flashing and trimming techniques the way I did, here’s what I learned Flashing (not the kind that goes on at Mardi Gras)Here’s what a window should look like that has been properly installed:Note:. Flashing at the bottom that sits under the window. Everyone tells us the roofing rubber we used was overkill, but do you want to have water in your house? Me either.
House wrap should be tucked inside on the sides and bottom of the window. House wrap should be folded up at the top (and able to be folded back down after the window tape is on. For windows that come with an integrated nailing flange that has to be bent out (Marvin) they will also have corner pieces that must be properly placed and caulked.Here’s the problem with DIYing some of your house addition all the tradesmen we’ve worked with like to play a game called “that’s not my job”. It goes like this “I’ll install your windows and attach the corner pieces, but I won’t caulk them because that’s not my job. The siding guy does that.”So it’s up to you as the person who has access to the internet and therefore the wealth of the ages to be informed of these things so that you don’t accidentally trim your windows out without caulking the corner pieces. Not that I’d have any experience with that.Ok, now that everything is caulked, it’s time for the window tape.
Foil on one side, and some kind of tar based don’t-get-this-stuff-on-your-clothes stickiness on the other side. Don’t get it on your clothes. Or anything else you don’t want stuck to the window.Start with the sides.
The tape gets applied 3″ over the top edge (enough for the top strip of tape to overlap it) and about 1/2″ up onto the side of the window. The top should start under the top flap for the house-wrap, so this image is a little misleading.The side pieces should run 4″ down over the flashing at the bottom.The top piece runs 4″ out over the side pieces, and under the top flap of house wrap.And then the top flap gets folded down over the window tape, and the seams are taped up with house wrap tape.Seems like taping might be a more appropriate term for it.That’s all there is to the flashing that needs to be done before you put on the trim. I’ll show you how our rubber flashing piece works when we install the siding. (Which god help me better be sooner rather than later.)Let’s trim something, shall we? TrimmingFirst lets talk about trimming basics. Window trim is basically just four pieces of wood, no matter how you look at it, but some ways are fancier than others.
Here are some things to consider.Materials– There are lots of materials you can use – fiber-cement trim boards, extruded aluminum trim from the window manufacturer, or plain old wood. For better or worse we’re going with cedar siding on the house, and rough sawn cedar for all of the fascia and trim.Sizes-Your trim should stick out past your siding, and since we’re using a 1″ overlaping siding we needed at to use 2x rough sawn lumber to trim in the windows. With a thinner siding you could use 1x material. Common widths are 4-6″.
How To Install Flashing Siding
Honestly I’ve seen some windows with 6″ siding, and unless they are huge, they look a little overwhelmed by that thick trim. But, much like permed bangs were in the eighties, it’s a personal choice.Corners– You can miter the corners or use a straight cut, and let me just give you an opinion on this. Don’t miter them. One, it’s a pain in the ass.
Two, as the wood expands and contracts (which will be much worse on those thin corner pieces) they’re going to pull away from eachother and look like crap). Three, the miter cut is a perfect channel directing water downward towards the inside of the window, which is exactly not where it should be. I cut the first trim pieces as miters, lined the up, and realized I was a complete moron and went back to make them square cuts.Sills– The sill can be a larger piece of wood, it can have a bevel on it, or some fancy detail, or just be a straight piece of wood like the rest of the trim.
It largely depends on the style of your house and the look you’re going for. We made the trim a simple square, since our wavy-edged siding is going to steal the show.
If it ever gets installed.As for the actual installing of trim, here’s how we did it.This is a properly flashed window:Hey look! Friday, 5 July, 2013 at 6:20Bravo! YES, you SHOULD take “overkill” measures when flashing doors and windows. I have maintained private islands in the tropics (and other places) and shoddy window installations make for tons of extra work down the line.
By the time you realize that your windows have been leaking for YEARS, you have a ton of costly damage to repair. When I built my house here in the islands, I even wrapped the rough opening lumber with protecto wrap and tucked the flashing into my courses of hardieplank. Wind driven rain from hurricanes here kills, but I’ve replaced windows and rotten sills, framing elsewhere too. Top notch work, as always. Thanks for sharing.
Friday, 19 September, 2014 at 22:56In case anyone else needs the answer to Pat’s question:Exactly my situation: house from the 50s, tar paper over sheathing, under aluminum siding. The answer is, you can’t unless you take down the siding. And I haven’t found any siding pros who will do it — it’s too hard to take aluminum down and put it back up and have it look like new, so they refuse. The best shops will only tear down and replace. So if you wanted to put in a new window, and wrap it well, you’d probably have to take down your siding, repair sheathing, wrap, install the window, and then cut the siding as you reinstall it around the new window.I took down about 6 courses under a large window that was leaking horribly.
Most of the tar paper was gone, the sheathing horribly rotten, ant nests, ugh. Cleaned it all out to the studs, re-sheathed, and I’m using tyvek up to the bottom of the window and am taping it under an upper course of tar paper which is still intact. Not perfect, but should be good for a few years until we have the whole house re-sided. $200 in materials and a solid day’s work.Like the page, btw! Thanks for the closeups on the taping details!br.
Friday, 16 January, 2015 at 8:02Stocking the new innovative Invisi-Gard 316 marine grade stainless steel Security & the farmore affordable 7mm Security, Coastwide as well provide a great deal of window dressingsincluding the very Well-known Roller Blind, Verticals, Venetiansand Timber Blinds along with an array of awnings for your outdoorentertainment areas. After connecting the SATA drive, boot using a drive cloning CD and copy the driveimage using the original IDE drive as the source and the new SATA drive as thedestination. My own experience in replacing the windows of a mid-level condo was excellent. Wednesday, 9 September, 2015 at 7:34nice pics on installing a window but I have always cut the window trim to overlap the sides. The sides should run past the lower trim so there is a natural rain drip edge and the lower trim is only cut the width of the window and caulked to produce the drip edge.as for chads comment about strand board, there is nothing wrong with strand board. Been using it at least 25 years myself and we don’t have a problem with it.
Building a house with overhangs we always run plywood there, around tub enclosures for built in tubs, but strand on the rest of the house. You have to properly flash it, and run building paper or house wrap to keep it dry or it will rot just as fast as plywood. Wednesday, 31 August, 2016 at 9:12Help, re trimming exterior with Hardie Board trim, some how all trim (particle board)got moisture, nails rusted, maybe I over caulked, starting from scratch, questions- I have not seen it on other homes, but does the trim above the garage door need a drip (?, “L” shape flashing, and all windows, if so, then matter how well your paint condition is, water (moisture) gets behind siding and needs a way out or air? Or is the trim left open (over garage door only) on the underside to allow air and water to escape?? Need Code 3 reply, so I can do the right thing before we get our moist weather and rain! Thank You, Rick, Rescue,CA. Sunday, 25 March, 2018 at 12:01My new windows are installed and old vinyl siding is removed.
My contractor did not put any of the window tape on. Giga tronics 1026 manual meat maker. Then he nailed rough, red cedar boards around the windows. Next he installed LP Smart siding which butts up next to the rough cedar trim. He said he will install an LP siding drip edge over the top of each window.Do we need the window tape?Doesn’t the red cedar need stained before it is installed?Do we caulk between the window and the red cedar?Do we caulk between the red cedar and pre painted siding?Any other suggestions?
A:Tom Silva replies: Galvanized Z-flashing, so-called because of its Z-shaped profile, is used to keep water from getting through the horizontal joints between sheets of plywood siding. You set the flashing on the top edge of each piece of plywood on a fat bead of caulk and hold it in place with just the heads of roofing nails driven into the sheathing. Don't nail through the flashing itself or it will eventually leak. Overlap the ends of the flashing by at least 2 inches and run a bead of caulk between the pieces at the overlap. And just before the plywood goes on, caulk along the top edge of the metal as extra protection against water.Before installing a new plywood section, seal its edges to prevent them from soaking up moisture. Use either a primer, if you plan to paint it, or a water-repellent preservative, if you plan to use stain. Also, as you fasten the plywood in place, make sure its bottom edge is 1/8 to 1/4 inch above the flashing's horizontal leg so water can drain away easily from the joint.
Finally, unless you like the look of weathered plywood, apply the first coat of finish within two weeks of installing it, before sunlight and water start to degrade the wood surface.
Hello:Moved into a house that has T1-11 vertical siding.At the bottom, the siding is 'finished off' with a horizontal board that runs the width of the house.Typical pine board, perhaps 6' X 3/4 x.The bottom edges of some of the siding (rests on top of the 3/4 board edge) has wicked up water over the years, and looks as ifI'll have to replace some of it. Also, a new horizontal board, as it does improve the looks.It has been suggested that I make sure to have the bottom edge of the siding where it meets the horizontal boardbe flashed with a 'Z Flashing'. Bob,T1-11 siding is known for the problems you mention. Unfortunately, there's no way to prevent it from happening again. It's possible that you could cut the rotton parts off, install the z-flashing, and just put a wider trim board along the bottom.
How To Install Z Flashing On Roof
(if you didn't want to replace a lot of siding.) caulking the edge where the siding meets the z-flashing might help keep that bottom edge from getting punk again, but the problem with caulking it is that the flashing is supposed to let any water behind the siding to get out. If no water ever gets behind the siding from above, then it's not a problem. But that's one reason why it's not usually caulked.If you put the z-flashing in and then caulk it, it's not much different than skipping the z-flashing and caulking it to the trim board. The difference would be that you have an actual mechanical flashing over your trim, rather than just relying on caulk, since caulk doesn't last forever.One problem with caulking it would be that if the caulking comes loose from the siding in a spot or two, it would actually trap water behind the caulking and it would never get a chance to dry out.
How To Install Z Flashing On Siding
That's the other reason the z-flashing is not usually caulked- so that the bottom edge of the siding can dry out after it gets wet. Unfortunately, this is a situation where you can't have your cake and eat it too. You have to decide which would be the better option in your situation.